pins and needles

It went from “chilly” to “really effing cold” in a big hurry here. I’m stunned. My students told me last week that it was supposed to snow today, and while I laughed in disbelief at the time, I’m now surprised that it hasn’t just yet. Today’s big ticket item on the agenda was a winter coat. No joke. It kills me to buy one since I left my old, shabby one in Bordeaux on the street for a new adventure, but worse still is the fact that I have three beautiful winter coats at home in our coat closet. (Also home to umbrellas, hideous impulse buys, and my mom’s stockpile of toilet paper.) But it had to be done. My sweater and jacket on top just aren’t cutting it. And it’s only mid-October. Thank the apartment gods that our radiators are so very good at their job and that the windows are all well sealed. I’d say that I can’t imagine the state of some of the other buildings around here, but that’s completely untrue. A certain vivid memory of sitting at a dining room table eating soup in my coat and scarf and long underwear comes to mind... Rice socks in the microwave. Endless cups of tea. All of France Part I. People seem a little kinder to one another here. They seem to care more.

Actually, that’s something that continually impresses me about Turkish people. They may be scoundrels and jealous thieves in certain areas, but their kindness of heart is astounding. I can’t count how many times I’ve seen people leave out food for the stray dogs and cats, or put down towels for bedding for them. I see old men pause to scratch behind a mongrel’s ears and I’ve seen other old men play with newborn kittens. Kids feed the pigeons and food that might be tossed is instead redistributed. It warms the very marrow of my bones, to be honest. It also makes me wonder why with our considerable resources we don’t follow suit in the U.S. (Yes, I do realize we have less strays.) Kindness and generosity aren’t limited to animals though. Just last night I was talking to one of my students, Yasemin, during a break. Because her English is excellent and we’re very chummy, it occurred to me that she might be able to tell me where I could buy a needle and thread. (I’ve been hunting for these basic items pretty much since I got here. I have some hardcore hemming to attend to.) When she finally understood what I was trying to ask, she told me she had some at home and would just give them to me. I said: no way. I need them for a long time, and I don’t want to inconvenience her. So she told me the name of the type of shop that carries them, and then said “no, I’m just going to buy them for you. I’ll bring them tomorrow.” I objected. Then I realized - Yasemin isn’t bullshitting me. And I need to respect her gift and accept it graciously. So I thanked her. And promised to pay her back - which she totally disregarded. Turkish people are like that.